Astrid van Oyen
Astrid van Oyen

Astrid van Oyen’s summer: ‘One last trip to Cinigiano’

Since 2016, archaeologist Astrid van Oyen has been visiting the Tuscan village of Cinigiano every summer, apart from during the Covid years. Not to go on holiday, but to carry out excavations at the site of what was once a Roman rural settlement. ‘We’re now familiar faces in the village.’

The more messages she received from colleagues in the field, the more she had been itching to get there over the past few weeks. But since 5 July, the time has finally come for Astrid van Oyen, professor of archaeology. After a year of working indoors on campus, she is travelling to Tuscany to put the finishing touches to an excavation project she has been working on since 2012, including years of preparation.

For several weeks each summer, the grassy landscape and olive groves around Cinigiano would be transformed into an archaeological site where Van Oyen, her colleagues from all over the world, and students collected the remains of a Roman settlement day in, day out. ‘Those were always long days. Because the academic calendar – certainly in the Netherlands – only allows for excavations to take place during the summer months, it’s extremely hot there. We usually started at 6 am, worked through to around midday, and then carried on for a while in the afternoon.’

From coins, pins and buckles to bones and pieces of pottery: the archaeologists unearthed all sorts of things. ‘But the most exciting discovery was a smithy. Because it had burnt down, all the tools had been well preserved beneath the ash. We found several hammers, an exceptionally large pair of pliers and part of a plough – presumably one of the smith’s last projects before his smithy caught fire.’ 

Astrid van Oyen

There was plenty happening outside the city too

The excavations are now complete. ‘This summer, just like the last, will be spent examining and analysing everything we have unearthed. Box by box, all the finds are laid out on long tables and studied in detail to learn more about life in the Roman countryside.’

Van Oyen’s research project, the Marzuolo Archaeological Project, forms part of a new trend within archaeology. For a long time, archaeologists focused primarily on cities such as Rome and Pompeii and assumed that hardly anything happened in rural areas. ‘But we’re actually seeing evidence of all sorts of things happening. The variety of materials, such as buckles and pins, for example, indicates a constant coming and going of people.’

We also see that there was a variety of buildings, some of which even changed function over time. Van Oyen points to a food stall, a winery that later served as a storehouse, and, of course, the smithy.

‘The variety of tools, and the fact that the blacksmith worked with recycled iron, lead us to suspect that he carried out a wide range of tasks and thus played a connecting role in the region. In effect, it was a sort of service centre for anyone who wanted something repaired.’

Astrid van Oyen
Astrid van Oyen during a tour of the archaeological site.

Pizza and karaoke

If all goes well, Van Oyen and her colleagues will know more by the end of this summer. They’re going to study the last few boxes of materials, and then, after ten years, the excavation project will suddenly come to an end. ‘Over the years, we’ve become familiar faces in Cinigiano, partly because it’s such a small village. For instance, there’s a woman from the village who cooks for the whole group, and amongst the long days there’s always a day when we pop into the local bar or join a pizza or karaoke evening. We also invite the locals every year for a guided tour of the excavation site, and we’ve organised a VR project where local schoolchildren could see what the settlement used to look like.’

Although the researchers are already considering a follow-up project in the same region, it would be strange not to travel to Cinigiano every year, says Van Oyen. ‘The project has taken up a large part of my academic career. And my children spent their first summers here. This year, for the first time, they’re not coming with us.’ Nevertheless, Van Oyen does not rule out returning there one day. ‘My daughter asked me recently if we’ll pop round again sometime. It’s not in the more tourist-oriented part of Tuscany, but perhaps sooner or later we’ll make a detour and return to Cinigiano.’

Opgraving in Cinigiano

Summer Series

This story is part of Radboud Recharge's Summer Series. In this year's series, we speak with researchers not only about their research, but also about their summer: the time when they recharge. Curious about the other stories in the series? You can read them on the Radboud Recharge website.

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History, Summer special